Chili à la Française

 

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Recently, I was overcome by desire for chili. I had neither cooked nor tasted chili since we left behind our ranch in Central Texas to move to France. Thanks to the mail-order supermarket “My American Market” it has, however, become possible to recreate some of those familiar flavors or at least close facsimiles thereof.

CLAUDINHA’s CHILI & CORNBREAD

 

As it turned out, with the exception of the coarse cornmeal and the can of “Rotel” diced tomatoes & green chilies, all ingredients for this recipe came straight out of our local supermarket. The biggest difference between Ranch chili and French chili was the meat I used. In Texas, we only ate flavorful deer meat, mostly Axis deer, raised on our own land. And the meat for my Ranch chilis was not ground but diced, which added a more interesting texture to the stew. Commercially processed ground beef just can’t match that. A word of caution before we proceed with the cooking. Do not, and I mean not ever call this “Texas chili”. Texas chili consists of beef cubes cooked slowly and gently in a sauce of freshly made chili paste. Period. Tomatoes or, heaven forbid, beans are never to be found in a true Texas’ Bowl o’Red. My chilis, on the other hand, have always included tomatoes and red beans, both from cans. That’s the way I like it.

For my first French chili, I began by softening the diced onion and garlic in a goodly slug of olive oil under low-medium heat before adding the ground beef.

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Once the meat was nicely browned, I mixed in most of the can of “Rotel”,

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followed by the content of the envelope of “Mexican spices” and a tablespoon of ground cumin seeds, working in the spices while turning up the heat to medium-high.

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Under high heat, I doused the mix with the dark beer and scraped the pan bottom vigorously while inhaling all that nice hops aroma. After a couple of minutes, I turned down the heat all the way, put a lid on the pot leaving a very small gap on one side for steam to escape. I let the meat simmer in the beer for around fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally. Then it was time to add the large can of whole, peeled tomatoes with their juice, stir well, put the lid back on and continue to simmer the chili for another hour or so.

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While the chili burps and bubbles contentedly, one could utilize this spare hour to get the cornbread going – but only if the chili is meant for the same day. Cornbread is such a lusciously sweet and crumbly kind of bread that it’s most delicious when eaten still warm from the oven, slathered in soft demi-sel Charentaise butter from the local farmer’s market … nothing could be better! You’ve seen a recipe for cornbread in my April 7 post, this time around I used a straight-up 1:1 mix of white wheat flour and yellow cornmeal.

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For the dry ingredients, I combined

  • 1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
  • 1 cup white flour
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp ground cumin seeds
  • 10 grinds of a pepper mill filled with white peppercorns
  • 1 tsp Piment d’Espelette [or smoked paprika]

In a separate bowl, I beat the bejeebers out of

  • 2 egg yolks
  • 4 Tbs yogurt [I used sheep milk yogurt, Greek-style should be equivalently tart]
  • 6 generous Tbs creamed corn
  • 2 Tbs fluid honey
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil

In yet another bowl, I beat the two egg whites with a little salt into fluffy soft peaks, which, on second thought, is a superfluous step I shall not repeat. Considering the coarse cornmeal in conjunction with the creamed corn, it’s a bit silly to try to introduce lightness into such a wet and heavy dough, don’t you agree?

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I combined the wet with the dry and folded in the fluffy, pouring the resulting farrago into a baking dish which went into a preheated oven at 200ºC/~400ºF for about 30 min, plus 10 min with the oven turned off.

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To finish the chili, I added both the coke and the well-rinsed beans and let it simmer without a lid to evaporate some liquid and to heat it through thoroughly for serving.

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This kind of chili is extremely benign, suitable for children and spiceophobic adults. It tastes even better reheated and freezes well, so it pays off to make a big batch for easy meals later. If you utilize a chili kit with a separate cayenne pepper envelope, use it sparingly, or not at all if you cook for guests with unknown Scoville scale tolerances. It’s much safer to let the diners heat up their individual portions with Harissa paste. The intensity of the cayenne powder develops through the cooking process and it is difficult to judge the resulting heat level, while the paste is a condiment that you taste immediately. Or set the table with a variety of Tabasco sauce flavors 🌶 Enjoy in good health!

 

 

 

 

 

Cornbread & Sunday Sunshine

As I record my cornbread recipe, it has become increasingly overcast and a light drizzle moistens the air. Not so earlier this morning. When I looked out an upstairs window, the day was delightfully bright, crisp, and shiny.

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April 7, 07h57

With my first cup of coffee, I processed yesterday’s cooking pictures. Going downstairs to fetch another cup, I took my camera with me for a delightful stroll among our newly sprouting green stuff. That gave me the opportunity to mingle pictures of sauteed onions with those of delicate vine leaves to make my recipe a little more adventurous.

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Saturday’s kitchen session revolved around Southwest flavors which we miss over here in France quite a bit. That is until we discovered a French online business called “My American Market” where we now order things like creamed corn and Rotel chile&tomatoes, not to mention pancake mix and, yes, Cheetos.

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The 13 ingredients for my cornbread, 14 if you count the eggs individually 🤓

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Firstly, combine the dry ingredients:

  1. 1 package Jiffy corn muffin mix
  2. 1 rounded cup cornmeal
  3. 2 tsp baking soda
  4. 1/2 tsp salt
  5. 1 rounded Tbl crushed, toasted cumin seeds
  6. 1 tsp powdered cumin seeds
  7. 1/2 tsp piment d’Espelette

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Then add the moist ingredients:

  1. 10 oz of the creamed corn
  2. 4 Tbl Rotel tomato-and-chile bits without the liquid
  3. 2 eggs, lightly beaten with 1 Tbl of Rotel liquid & some freshly ground nutmeg
  4. 2 Tbl honey
  5. 2 Tbl olive oil
  6. 1/4 cup finely shredded cheese [Comté in my case]

Blend well and pour into the baking dish of your choice. I decorated the top with the remaining creamed corn and coarsely chopped cheddar cheese.

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Using a convection oven, I baked the cornbread at 180ºC/350ºF for 10 min, lowered the temperature to 150ºC/300ºF and continued to back for another 30 min. The bread wasn’t quite done, so I added a few more minutes at 180ºC to finish the center and get a nicely browned top.

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While the bread was in the oven, the skirt steak for our fajitas needs to be marinated. Some good quality olive oil, fajita seasoning, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, dried herbs, piment d’Espelette – or whatever comes to mind or happens to be laying around your pantry.

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We brought that olive oil back from San Sebastián in January, it’s delicious.

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Looks like we might have some figs this year!

Meanwhile, it was time to slice and dice the vegetables, green and red bell peppers, yellow and red onions, and a little garlic for the fun of it.

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As usual, I sautéed my onions first by themselves at a low temperature to let them gently caramelize, before I added the peppers, garlic, and flavoring.

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When all the veggies were pretty much ready, I turned up the heat and added the juice of the zested lemon for a fruity finish. Truth be told, this kitchen version of fajitas, both the meat and the vegetables, is pretty much a lame second choice. Real fajitas should be charcoal grilled, nicely charred, and dripping with Tex-Mex flavor!!

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Our Clematis growing steadily over the pergola support.

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With a little avocado and a drizzle of Balsamico, it was pretty tasty, nevertheless.

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Potimarrons & Pfifferlinge

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Our mission today is four-fold. Using everything shown above, plus a few additional ingredients like powdered coriander seeds & curcuma, cream, yogurt, duck fat, and, of course, Pfifferlinge, we are tasked to prepare a pot of cabbage stew, a cornbread, a baked potimarron, and, of course, those Pfifferlinge.

Recently we received an order of sorely missed American products from the “My American Market”, a mail-order company in France for American staples, including but not limited to instant jell-O, sweet relish, and crunchy Cheetos. This little package provided the wherewithal to bake my very first cornbread since we left Texas in 2014! And aren’t we all giddy in anticipation?

But first, we have to slice and dice a lot of the fresh ingredients needed for the Wirsing stew, the savoy cabbage you have met in the previous post, and the Pifferlinge in Sahnesoße or chanterelles in cream sauce which around here are known as chanterelles à la crème.

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Diced shallots, parsley, and those marvelous, purple carrots

I bought the funky carrots just for the fun of it. They taste just like regular carrots but render much more dramatic images 😎

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Whenever I pull out my large sauteuse for a one-pot meal, the cooking always starts with dry-toasting some spices. Today, we begin by roasting cumin seeds to a deep brown shade, after which some elbow grease is needed to crush the critters into submission.

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The crushed cumin is then divided between the cabbage stew and the cornbread.

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Two yellow onions slowly softening in duck fat and seasoned with crushed, toasted cumin.

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Onion in duck fat on the left – shallots in sweet butter on the right

As I keep lecturing you ever so tediously, take your time with your aromatics! Aromatics –  as in the in the Genus Allium, not the hydrocarbon aromatics of organic chemistry – need to sweat in low heat to develop their sweet aroma.

When the onions are ready, we rasp some nutmeg over the vegetables and add salt & pepper. We also add 3 cloves and 2 bay leaves in the rubber turkey leg, as well as an additional laurel leaf [it was too large to fit in the turkey leg container], the diced carrots, and 3 cored Espelette chiles, shortly to be followed by a handful of diced red sweet peppers.

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… while the shallots one burner over still sweat on their own for a little while longer till the time is right to toss our Pfifferlinge into the pan.

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Now we have to focus on the small frying pan because one can’t safely leave one’s chanterelles unsupervised for too long. Soon, very soon, they’ll cry out for some cream.

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I also incorporated a teaspoon of Knorr “Jus de Rôti”, essentially roast beef essence, with the fungi and cream, before offering the creamy chanterelles with a slice of cornbread as an appetizer to my Longhorn versus Oklahoma watching husband.

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Oh yeah, the cornbread! It baked quietly while we were enriching Pfifferlinge mit Sahne 😎

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As far as the cabbage stew is concerned, it practically cooks itself. After the bell peppers have made friends with the other ingredients, add the shredded cabbage to the sauteuse, wet it down with some water, season it, and finish it off with cream. All done!

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And what about the potimarron, you ask?

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It and the two heads of garlic plus a couple of Espelette chiles roasted in the oven for a good little while. I’ll use them as a base for soup early next week.

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Autumn’s acoming, so there’ll be a lot more rich and belly-warming soups on the agenda! Stay tuned!!

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A rough table of contents for

A. Cornbread

  • 180 g yellow cornmeal
  • 90 g all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda

[If you like your cornbread fluffy, add 1 tsp of baking powder]

  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp powdered coriander seeds
  • 1/2 tsp powdered curcuma
  • 5 turns of a peppermill with white peppercorns
  • 2 Tbl of light brown cane sugar

Combine the above, then add

  • 100 g natural, unflavored yogurt or Kefir [I used Greek-style yogurt]
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 Tbl honey
  • 350 g or most of a can of “Creamed Corn”
  • 75 ml olive oil

Mix well, but briefly. Pour the dough into a ~9″/24cm baking dish. Spread remaining creamed corn in a circle around the top and sprinkle remaining crushed, toasted cumin over the creamed corn. Bake at 200ºC/180ºC convection/350ºF for 35 min. plus leave for 5 min in the turned-off oven.

B. Cabbage Stew

  • 2 Tbl duck fat
  • 1 tsp crushed, toasted cumin seeds
  • 1 Savoy cabbage
  • 2 yellow onions
  • 3 carrots
  • 1 red bell pepper
  • 3 Espelette chiles, seeds removed

[the chiles just add a bit of heat, I used them because they were around 😎]

  • 3 cloves & 3 laurel leaves
  • freshly ground nutmeg [~1/4 teaspoon]
  • zest of one small lemon
  • 250 ml water, more if needed
  • cream

C. Chanterelles in Cream

Not much to it. Soften the shallots in butter and gently heat the fungi. Season to taste and finish with heavy cream. Yummy!

D. Potimarron

Ditto. Clean out seeds and stringy stuff, cut up and bake/broil/cook at will!